My Liquid Loves
- February 10, 2011
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The approach of Valentine’s Day seems an opportune time to divulge the identities of my truest and deepest wine loves, those magnificent bottles that will live in my memory for as long as I have one. Considering the number of incredible wines I have been privileged to taste, this would seem an impossible task. As I sit down to write, though, I find it surprisingly easy.
June of 1993. I’m on my first trip to Napa, and as the wine buyer for a successful retailer in downtown La Jolla I am being treated very well by all. Cruising down the Silverado Trail, I’m enjoying the gorgeous day so much I speed right past my next appointment, at Chimney Rock. Fortunately, I notice and turn around. The folks there greet me and my girlfriend like family. They show us around, answer questions, serve us lunch, give us the key to their upstairs guest room, which was ours for the night. All wonderful. But ahhh, the wines – in particular their 1985 Reserve Cabernet. At this point in my life I’d had some terrific bottles, but this one stood out. Such depth of flavor, complexity, and power… yet retaining great elegance and balance. For the first time in my life I realized wine could be more than just a beverage.
December 2002. The Tobin family gathers on the evening of the 24th for our annual Christmas Eve celebration. I think it was Bill’s house in Rancho Bernardo. It’s a big family, and it’s always a great time. One of the things that makes it great is the tradition Bill and I have kept going for years, which is to bring a couple nice bottles to share with those who partake (there actually are many in our family who do not – still haven’t figured out what’s wrong with them). I brought a 1991 Cannubi Barolo, producer since forgotten. But what a wine! An intriguing array of flavors weaving together from entry to long, long finish, and a mouthfeel of pure silk. Stunning and eye-opening. I resolved at that point to spend more time exploring Italian wines. I’ve still got a lot of work to do!
August 2003. Throwing a barbecue at my place in San Diego. Family, friends, food and wine. Does it get any better? Regarding one wine that Bill brought over, no, in fact, it doesn’t. This was a 1991 Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet. Now, we’re talking basic barbecue foods here. Chicken, brats, burgers, some steak. The Ridge transcended everything and was the wine that first made me think about owning my own shop one day. Incredible power and concentration. A perfect balance of rich flavors that damn near brought my taste buds to orgasm. To this day my mouth waters when I think about it.
December 2010. Once again the Tobin clan gathers on Christmas Eve. This time it’s my house in Oceanside. The tradition lives on, of course, and I open a bottle of 1997 Opus One. Let me just say this: Oh. My. God. I could string together a long list of superlatives, but you get the point. Customers sometimes ask me, “these wines that are so expensive, are they worth it?” I typically answer by saying it depends on who’s buying, and for what reason, but that even I wouldn’t spend that kind of money on wines for everyday use. But last Christmas Eve, I’ll tell you, I was grateful to be able to share that Opus.
So there they are, my liquid loves, my mistresses in a bottle. At the risk of sounding like a wine slut, I hope to have many more!